small o rings, smaller than you think, and it's such a hard process i had to give up
i think i ought to try the other one, using someone else's leg rubber
I know that you can repair them with screw eyes hooks & rubber o-rings but which size for both of them is the best fit. I have a couple MOTU action figures with the legs apart & I need to have them in battle motion once again.
I'm Skeletor, master of evil! All of you should show respect for the awful one.
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I don't know if these numbers are universal, but I used two number 9 o-rings (the same size a GI Joes). And for screw eyes I used Size 212. The eye need to be small enough to fit INSIDE the hole on top of the leg to get a tight fit. Oh, and it helps to have someone hold the figure while your pulling the o-rings, 'cause they have to be so tight!
i prefer to do this without using "after market" parts ie the O ring...leg "band" fixing can be done with all original parts for a pretty much minty fix...
here is my basic process from another thread on this issue awhile back...
"the best fix i know is to use "recovered" rubber "bands" from other fodder figures...takes a little practice to get good at popping them out...i bring water to boiling, remove heat, submerg legs for approximately 30-45 seconds(try to keep the waist and torso out of the water as much as possible), squeeze the ball socket together and use needle nose pliers to get under the "ball", repeat the process for the second leg(usually don't bother to bring the water back to a boil)...they will usually pop right out, although probably one in 6 or 7 doesn't survive the process and of course MANY were destroyed working it out...
as far as popping them back in...i recommend submerging the legs as much as possible to loosen up the plastic, then squeeze the leg ball socket together and apply "strategic" force...the rubber "band" will usually go about half way in on the first push, then use "clean up" strategic force to the areas that aren't in the socket and you'll be there...
getting the rubber "band" THROUGH the waist is a little bit tricky...use the need nose pliers to force the free "ball" through the place it goes in inside of the waist...you only have to get it a little bit through and then grab it from the other side with the pliers...
the trickiest part is getting the ball into the second leg without over stretching your rubberband or breaking it...essentially use the same "strategic" force strategy employed on the first leg...
it took alot of trial and error and fodder figures to work out the process, but it can be done with all original parts and you can have a working "like new" figure...i have restored at least 4 of the figures in permanent collection in this manner and have been satisfied with the results..."
the only difference now is i generally use heat from a hair dryer to warm the pieces rather than bringing water to a boil...but, both will work about the same...
skeletoncrew, you are the MASTER!!!!!!!!!
I have a Prince Adam who's rubber band is getting a bit...well. Not really loose. The memory is just not where it needs to be. The legs can't support the figure well because they tend to stretch out...like he's been riding atop Battle Cat too long.
I checked He-Bro's site and didn't really find a fix there.
Right now I have him inside a glass because it forces his legs to stand correctly...but it's been like that almost 24 hours now and when i took him out he still isn't standing right. Anyone know of a good fix?
We need to let our new friends at Super 7 know that many of us are ALL IN COLLECTORS. We don't want products that are impossible for the average collector to have access to! If there is a He-man product, I want to buy it. Please no chases or con-only exclusives.
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Good luck!If the legs aren't detached from the body, Detatch them and with a craft/hobby knife remove as much of the old rubber as possible.
Take a trip to your local hardware store and buy some small eyelets. You will need 2 per figure. These look like cup hooks but instead of being opened, they are closed. To judge the correct size, the curved edge of the closed eyelet needs to match the curve in the top of the leg. (Where the rubber used to be.
Also buy some very very small "O"rings. These need to smaller enough to fit over a pencil but not be loose or tight. Just a nice fit. You will need 2 o-rings per figure but have some spare available.
With a very fine drill, drill a small hole into the top of the leg where the ruber used to be. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL TO FAR OR YOU'LL COME OUT THRU THE KNEE.
Repeat this on the other leg.
Screw the closed eyelet halfway into 1 of the legs only. With a pair needle nose plyers, open the eyelet enough to hook 2 "o"rings into it and gently sqqqueeze the eyelet closed again. Fully screw it into the leg.
Open the other eyelet but don't screw it in to the leg yet.
Gently loop some string thru the 2 o-rings and thread the string thru the action figures "shorts" going where the original rubber went.
Now be careful and patient as you pull the o-ring thru the body. It is a tight fit and you may have to use the pliers to manuver it thru the gap. Don’t pull the string to hard or it will cut thru the o-rings.
When its thru the gap, make sure the o-rings aren't twisted but don't remove the string.
Hook the other opened eyelet thru the o-rings and close the eyelet with the pliers.
Carefully remove the sting.
Screw the other leg onto the eyelet. You may have to hold the eyelet with the needle nose pliers, as it is a little tricky.
If the legs are crooked, gently stretch the o-ring, hold the eyelet with the pliers and carefully screw the leg so it's straight.
They won't last as long as the original rubber bands but they will last quite a while. If they break you can replace them.
If your not sure about the size of o-rings and eyelets you need, buy some different sizes and see what works for you.
Try it out on some worn out figures first until you master the technique.
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I have used the "eyelet" fix with the o-rings and it works great. using two o-rings is a bit more difficult but makes for a tighter joint. i found the tricks on he-bro's site to be useful.
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I've used the eye-hook o-ring trick a couple times on the kids figures. I even did the dual o-ring thing, and while it was a challenge to fix, once I did it the figures came out great.
I have bought a couple of lots on ebay recently and they have included figures with legs that have fallen off. Does anyone know how to reattach them? I have worked on GI Joes quite a bit, but this will be a first for fixing MOTU. Any help is appreciated.
I've never done it, but IMO super glue would be the only way
In Midwinter, the heat from the oven baking my Shrinky Dinks is all I need!
You can also do it with orginal leg bands, though it takes practice. Search the forums there have been threads on it.
Because of the black bands in vintage MOTU figures, they ALL will eventually fall apart when the rubber rots through. It’s only a matter of time. Odds are that all vintage MOTU figures will be legless before we are on our death bed. Is this something that you guys think about or do you pretend like it won’t happen?
I only collect vintage MOTU figures without leg bands such as Flying Fists He-Man. Since Mattel had to create new molds for the reissues, it’s a shame that they didn’t improve the figures by adding leg joints.
Hmmm...I think I'm in complete denial. It's possible to glue the legs in there, or redo them yourself. I think it might be He-Bro that has a site on how to redo them??? My Mosquitor has no band left, but I can stick his legs in his holes and he still stands and doesn't fall.
Well at least Snout Spout will be standing too. But seriously most of my legs bands are in great shape so they will hopefully last my life time.
Regardless of the rubber bands, the plastic of the figure itself will deteriorate as well. My Rokkon is sticky (and becomes sticky all over after cleaning), King Hiss has small bubbles on his boots where oil is leaking through from under the boot-paint etc. They won't be presentable in time. The rubber is the least of my worries.
The harder styrene plastic (like the one from the playsets or vehicles) won't deteriorate as fast as the softer ones, and they won't go all at the same rate, but they are all going to go eventually I'm afraid.
Also the new ones and the new series to come. I know it's horrible but just enjoy them while you can. Fact of the matter is that you (and I) are deteriorating as well It's the way of things.
I understand that my MOTU figures could run in to some problems. My only figure that I'm having a lot of trouble with is Extendar. He is turning green!
I live in Arizona and my figures have stayed pretty good so far. (I'm not sure if it is because it is so dry here or what?) Even my bubbles on MOC figures are staying clear. The only yellowed bubbles I have are ones that I purchased form people outside of Arizona.
I would never go as far as not purchasing them though because there is a risk. Such as when you say that you only purchase figures without rubber leg bands.
I still love my wife and pets although I know they won't look as good as when they were young.
In Midwinter, the heat from the oven baking my Shrinky Dinks is all I need!
Hmm...interesting, yes. This begs the question, who are you collecting for? Yourself, posterity or children.
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Mine won't. I replaced mine with rubber o-rings. They will probably last my whole lifetime since I don't play rough like a small child would.