Just to chime in myself, I was most skeptical with the Pledge with Future Shine suggestion but after applying it to my Stratos and getting much laughter from my wife, his joints are perfect now! So again to Mr. BSKCASE...a giant thank you!
I glad this helps everybody. I've used it an all my loose jointed figures from the old Marvel Legends to my Clone Wars which i use a small funnel tube from a WD-40 can.
I do have to advise caution when trying on Moss-man. Mine came with lose ankles and with a very small brush, I carefully put in the future. I also made peace with the fact that I might totally might have messed up the figure and I would have to buy another.
Luckily, I did a decent job and the joints came out nice and tight.
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I actually disassemble the figures feet using cup of hot water, and cut out a small circles with a hole in them out of a thin cardboard paper and put them in and assemble the feet back - the problem is that the plastic circle that connects the leg wiht the feet using a pin is too thin hence the flappy feet - by inserting the thin layer of cardboard I'm making this part thicker and suddenly - my figures have tight joints and can stand nicely! :-)
I do it only with feet, and you can't even tell a figure has been tempered with ;-) And the best part, there is no problem that this will need to be re-applied, since cardboard won't "work out" as quickly as say pledge will when moving feet ;-) Might be a bit longer process involving disassembling and assembling the figure but if done properly, should be the only time it has to be done ;-)
All You need to know about tightening up those joints. Check it out.
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i started using this glue stick liquid glue, a drop or two work it into the join the it dry, joints get stuck then whenyou move it it's tight, no white residue like with super glue and it's hot water soluble so if you don't like it its easy to clean up but sincethe bond can break but it stays in the joint you haven't any trouble.
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I have not used clear nail polish much, mostly on Transformers. It's easy to apply but not terribly durable. It can flake from wear and render itself useless. There are minor levels of acetates in it bit if it's enough to melt the plastic in toys, it's hard to say. They would mainly be an agent to keep the stuff wet and drying evaporates it. Clear polish probably also lacks in certain chemicals, especially dyes, which could impact this and it may also vary by brand. The type of plastic used may also matter, the softer MOTUC stuff may be susceptible to minor dissolving from the acetates.
I'll leave it to someone with expendable spare parts to test this.
I have used the super glue trick ONCE on an Optimus Prime's ball joint shoulders. They had a lot of white "frost" on them afterwards, I'd not suggest it.
There is also a no-chemical solution of cutting small bits of plastic from packaging windows and wedging them into the joint. This may not always be the easiest though.
So with the latest weak-ankled Octavia debacle, it's occurred to me that I actually don't know how to fix these loose ankles, knees, or various other joint issues with MOTUC figures. People say they use clear coat, others tiny elastics... feel free to post your methods for fixing loose joints here. I'm sure I'm not alone and others could use tutorials and hints as well to keep these figures upright and posed the way we want. I've tried the superglue thing and maybe it's the stuff I'm using, but it didn't really do much of anything on a Faker I've been having issues with.
Where applicable, please throw some links our way too (for example if you're finding certain clear coat whatever on amazon or whatnot) or at the very least, the exact name of whatever product it is you're using.
Thanks in advance for any tips/tricks!
I would love to get some ideas, too! My Moss Man and Beast Man are pretty slouchy!
People have always suggested using superglue, and yeah, I've never had any luck with it. Something else where I think the effectiveness has been exaggerated is the boiling method for correcting warped weapons, legs, etc. I've done this dozens of times, and the plastic always goes back to its original shape, though it may take a day or two. I've never tried clear coat, but it seems like a quick, easy way to mess up your figure
I wouldn't call the octavia thing a debacle.. it sounds that its just a hit or miss thing as mine is just fine and I seen a few others state the same. although this thread will be helpful for the other figures that are bad
I think people use the bands in the package to help hold joints like with battlecats neck following down. However I think in general the females are normally more prone to weak joints because the legs are skinner.
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Matte acryl varnish has worked for me before. But it wears down after time so you might have to re apply it if you pose the figure a lot.
I have to send my Octavia back, the ankles are horribly loose. I also have paint app issues that aren't acceptable for the money we spend. So back she goes for a replacement, this is the first quality issue I've had in a while.
colt44 feedback thread:
I seldom ever boil figure parts anymore. It's messy and using a hair dryer is much faster and cleaner. I wouldn't say it's great for tightening joints, but it's fantastic for straightening bent accessories. I've never had any revert to their bent state after doing it. I've used the clear rubber band trick on She-Ra and a few others, but don't love the result. It's way too obvious on the female feet due to the way they are constructed (there is more of a gap between the calf piece and the foot, which makes the bands more noticeable).
Someone had suggested using a clear coat sealer and applying 2 coats. I did that for my Octavia (who had a tendency to lean/fall forward even on a stand) and it turned out great! I already used a brush on sealer for custom work, and this turned out nice.
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I have used the floor wax method and fixed many a loose joint.
I now use an old Testors clear parts glue....it's for making windows and gluing say headlights....it's slow drying so you can leave the figure for say 5 minutes, and work the joint, and it's only begun to stiffen a little, about an hour for maximum effect, with working the joint every few minutes. It doesn't melt plastic like the regular Testors Model glue does. But to be honest....I don't even know if they make it anymore....
But for the Super Glue....other than a haze if you use too much, it will not harm the plastic, in fact PVC loves Super Glue....only downside is it dries fast and you have to work the joint constantly....leave it for one second....and your joint is fused. I use it all the time on my customs, and there is no damage to be done to the figures except if you fail to work the joint while it dries or use too much and get that haze, but I've been able to get the haze off with just a drop of acetone on a Q-Tip....but obviously not for novices.
If you feel comfortable with it, then have at it....but there are other methods beginners can use....just know the Super Glue method won't actually harm the plastic itself.
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I've never boiled my stuff, I've heated water in a microwave to boiling and then dipped it in, and that works great for taking them apart and straightening things....a hair dry for someone who isn't familiar with how hot they can get even on a lower setting can melt the plastic....Yeah it works, but in my experience not as fast as dipping stuff in hot water....it only takes a few seconds of dipping.... I've pulled an entire figure apart in less than a minute this way....it took me 2 minutes each just to reshape Sorceress' & Teela's skirts alone with a hair dryer, but a few seconds in the boiled water (not boiled in the water mind you) the plastic was just as soft as over a minute with a hair dryer.
Now, I've never had it work trying either method to tighten a joint, unless the figure was already apart and you pressed the sides together....but often times....it's the crap ass joints themselves and not much besides an outside force is going to fix it....like glue or wax.
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Oh man, did I forget to use these [sarcasm][/sarcasm] again? Sorry....
I don't know if I'm just impatient but the hairdryer method hardly ever worked for me. I use an electric tea kettle to boil water, pour it into a shallow tupperware, and dip the figure in that.
Anyway, I've used the clear elastics method on several figures' ankles. It works almost all the time; other times the elastics just dont' get into the articulation cavity as deeply as it should.
And that is what I do, but I boil the water in the microwave....without the figure the figure in it. And in seconds the plastic is soft enough to do whatever, and once it cools down or you run it under cold water....it's like you've done nothing to it....but what you set out to do got done.
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Oh man, did I forget to use these [sarcasm][/sarcasm] again? Sorry....
Every time I've used a hair dryer to remove parts for customs, it literally just takes a few minutes. I'm not sure how boiling would be faster, except that maybe it's faster for joints (or my wife's hair dryer is a lot hotter). As I said, I don't use a hair dryer for tightening joints, per se, but rather to fix accessories, etc. I've boiled parts and run them under cold water in the past to tighten then, but I've always found that it doesn't stay tight past a few days.
Am I doing something wrong with this method?