I applaud you for your efforts Skeletortilla, but nobody should have to go to such great lengths to "correct" a product that should have been right in the first place.
Okay, after tinkering with my extra He-Ro, I was able to remove and replace the shoulder joint without cracking open the torso.
1) Boil and pop off the bicep/remaining arm.
2) Boil the shoulder.
3) Slip a small flathead screwdriver into the bottom (armpit) side behind the rotator disc.
4) You will see a soft pin which runs through the center of the rotator disc. This is welded all the way through. Using a hobby knife, cut it flush with the inside of the shoulder.
5) Boil the shoulder again to resoften it, and pull the shoulder out of the rotator disc.
6) You will now be able to see how the shoulder is solid, running through the center of the disc.
7) Finding the exact center of the shoulder, drill a small hole 1/16" from the BACK of the shoulder, all the way through the center pin, stopping before you exit the front of the shoulder.
8) After repeating steps 1 through 7 on both sides, boil and reattach the shoulders on the correct sides.
9) Using 1/16" steel rod (from the hobby or hardware store) insert all the way into the hole you drilled. Mark the end, pull it out, and cut it just a bit shorter, so as to be countersunk when put back in.
10) Reinsert rod using a drop of superglue, push in totally, fill remaing hole with squadron green putty, and paint to match.
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I applaud you for your efforts Skeletortilla, but nobody should have to go to such great lengths to "correct" a product that should have been right in the first place.
Sounds simple enough.
Cool, so far my "fixing" attempts comprised of using an eraser to remove paint drops from Evil Lyn's helmet - so this sounds like right from my alley ;-> In a word - Applause to you for the guide - thank you but no, thank you ;-P I'll just keep it the way I received it ;-)
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Would it be possible to skip steps #7-10 by simply heating the shoulder as much as possible w/ a hair dryer, dabbing a small bit of superglue on the now-cut end of the soft pin, and putting the shoulder back on the correct rotator disc, letting the end of the cut-pin glue into place while moving the shoulder so that the edges around the pin don't glue tight?
Otherwise it sounds like you've got an unsightly hole and the edge of a steel rod showing from your figures' shoulders.
Not having him in hand yet, I'm not sure, but wouldn't the kind of plastic used with Roboto's transparent torso be a game-changer for the boil and pop strategy? Might it blur the clarity of the window?
-"You want me to drive?!!"
-"Hey, it's the 80's!"
That's what I've done with modern Hasbro 3 3/4 figures. Glue wasn't even all that necessary once the plastic got back to it's rigid shape. I'd say the rod method is definitely better for confidence in having a solid permanent bond, and the glue on the rod keeps glue that much further from the disc. Without the rod, you've got this tiny bead of glue, and the two flat surfaces that you cut apart may not have the best bond.
That said, if I fix mine, I won't be using a rod since I'm lazy. I'd recommend A)lightly scoring the cut surfaces before gluing and B) As soon as you glue and attach the shoulder, work it up and down while sqeezing it tight for a few minutes so that any escaped glue won't freeze the joint C) Ponder the ridiculous effort that is going into fixing your toy robot.
I definitely don't mean to criticize the rod technique. You are brilliant and ambitious, Mr. Rod Technique and I've learned something awesome today!
What kinda sucks for any fix is that even though I've got the tools I need, it can be expenisivw for other folks. My bootleg method still requires a hobby knife, glue, and preferably some experience. The excellent method up there also requires a drill or rotary tool, sculpting compound, and paint as well.
I'll probably hate myself for offering...but if I decide to fix mine and it turns out to be simple and sturdy, I may have a few more attempts in me.
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It definitely is a game changer for an attempt to split the torso since any scratch or stress will mar it. The beauty of Skeletortilla's method though, is that the torso doesn't necessarily need to get wet or heated at all if you're careful. I'm slightly nervous about a drop of water working it's way inside, but since I'm not positive if heat will affect the clear plastic(probably not) but I still prefer the boiling water idea to the less precise heat application of a hair dryer.
No. Unfortunately, if you try that, the glue will all scrape off onto the rotator disc when you try to reassemble the two pieces. It's a really tight fit. As long as you cut the rod a bit shorter than the hole you drilled, you can countersink it and putty and paint right over it.
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Can you show pics?
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Where are the corrected shoulders pictures??![]()
Last edited by MldMnrdReporter; October 19, 2010 at 09:31am. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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My hat is off to you Skeletortilla! Those are awesome instructions. Sadly, there is no way I would chance my hands at such a complicated procedure. Well done!
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Just got my 3 Robotos. Two of them look to be backwards, but on one Roboto figure there's circuitry that's completely touching/lined-up on ONE arm just like in the prototype picture. - The right arm. (his right)
I stopped reading at drill. If it requires having to drill or something like that, I won't do it.
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